![]() ![]() We were able to pick up a pack of 4 batteries for around $10(USD) with free shipping from a US seller out of California. So I tested out these batteries after fully charging them up. The average on a 14500 cell is anywhere from 700mAh to 850mAh. ![]() Trust-fire states that they have 900mAh of capacity is really too good to be true. After doing a lot of looking around for a high-capacity 14500 battery. But they have roughly the same dimensions as a pair of alkaline AA batteries (we will get to the rough part in a moment). The downside of the 14500 series Li-Ion battery is that they are not as abundant to get out of things such as old laptops. You can change the Li-Ion type from the 18650 down to the 14500 series battery. Then with a under/over-voltage protection circuit installed as well, you could keep multiple 18650’s inside and have enough power to keep it running for weeks at a time! Stepping down the size with a 14500 series Li-Ion battery. 18650 batteries however may still have a use in a controller if you were making something like a fighting stick or classic arcade stick that had a very large wooden base to it. you can’t even do the trick of replacing the rumble motors with batteries because the 18650’s are simply too big. But a big problem with the 18650 is they are simply too big to fit into the Xbox controller and must find a unique way to glue it to the bottom of the controller. The 18650 batteries are really awesome and they store a lot of power behind them (the one in use above was using had a storage level of 2200mAh and the battery tester states it has a proven storage of around 1960mAh). This problem for launch-date controllers and can be remedied by using a diode to draw the voltage downwards to an acceptable level as stated in this blog entry. If your controller has dim lights and refuses to power on, drain the lithium battery a little by leaving it plugged in and when it hits around 3.9volts DC it will kick. But anything past the initial launch date controllers had a better power regulator installed with the Xbox elite controllers having the very best regulation chip inside of them that can take a 4.2 lithium battery fully charged. The first generation Xbox controllers will not power on completely with a fully charged lithium 4.2v battery because the first gen launch controllers had a regulator going up to 4 volts and that is it. ![]() It should be noted from another blog dealing with Xbox controllers that not all Xbox controllers provide the same power regulation circuit in them. Differences in Xbox Controller circuitry. Since battery voltage is all over the place this is why in-line circuit regulators are handy things. Ni-Cad batteries such the stock rechargeable only go to 1.4volts per cel totaling 2.8volts DC. The regulator also serves a purpose of stabilizing power as the voltage drops until it hits 1.8 to 2.0 volts DC and shuts off your controller. They’re charged around 1.5 to 1.67 volts DC per cel. When you pick up alkaline batteries at the store. The reason why this works is manufacturers typically has DC-DC regulator circuits inside of every battery controlled device. This is a good thing! How is this possible?!?!? The controller came to life and did not blow itself apart. With a fully charged by battery using my IMax B6AC v2 charging station to 4.2volts and plugged it in. There was an abundant source of lithium batteries from previous projects and was in the process of cataloging the storage of each battery. Which they do make single cel li-po chargers very cheaply as I pointed out in a previous blog. Proof of concept with a 18650 Li-Ion battery.Īlthough the original article dates way back to 2008, a commentator from 2013 mentioned how he just crammed a 18560 Li-Po battery to the bottom of his battery, placed a Li-po/Li-ion charge circuit in the battery housing and called it a day. For those looking for that total conversion charger and all. Now, for those reading this and want a super simple solution check out this blog about using just one battery and a diode. We will focus on working with replacing the battery cels in the Ni-Mh charger versus mutilating our Xbox controller. In the spirit of the original hack posted by them. The only thing that was in the Xbox rechargeable battery is 2 Ni-Mh batteries rated at around 2100mAh, a thermal sensor, and a circuit board which has a little EEprom chip that simply informed the Xbox what kind of battery was installed into it. ![]() There really wasn’t a whole lot inside as a lot of your circuit for charging is actually in the charge cable. Make a Li-ion battery charging pack for your Xbox 360 controller.Ī long time ago, Hack a Day did a breakdown on the rechargeable battery that you could buy for the Xbox 360 controller. ![]()
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